Monday, September 29, 2008

You're open until WHEN?!


As the holy moth of Ramadan draws to a close, I thought I might should make a few comments on what I’ve observed in my time here. But first, a disclaimer- I say all this with the utmost respect for, and no limit of ignorance about Islam. Whatever mistakes I make, and I’m sure they’re in here, please do correct me.

Assuming that the new moon is sighted tonight, (which it will be, but out of tradition, you aren’t allowed to say it will be until it actually is), Ramadan, the holy month of fasting, ends tonight. And let me tell you- Ramadan is a weird practice. It’s absolutely beautiful, but very weird. The way it goes is you aren’t allowed to eat or drink from sunup to sundown each day for a month. Additionally, Muslims are required to abstain from smoking, drinking, or any kind of sexual action or thought. This means that most places are closed from 2pm-8pm, when people are either hungry past the point of functioning, or breaking fast. Philosophically, there are several interesting points about all this.

The first is that there is, depending on whether you ask an Islamic scholar or a Muslim scholar (the first I mean to be someone who studies Islam from an analytical, secular standpoint, and the second from a religious), no real reason for the fasting. In theory, it is to commemorate the Night of Power- the night that Mohammed the Prophet received his revelation. But consider this: all the different schools have a different date, and it’s not specified in the Qur’an (or the Hadith, I think), so there’s no significance to Ramadan as a month in and of itself other than that somehow, mysteriously, it was tagged with this fasting gig. Go figure, right?

A second interesting theological standpoint is that the demons (ie Satan) are chained during this time, and cannot incite bad, forbidden, or unclean behavior in the people, making it a very pure, holy time. I don’t know enough about this to really say too much, but curiously enough, during Ramadan, it is also more acceptable for a single man and a single woman to go unchaperoned. All over the city, on bridges, in squares, you see men and women in their early twenties all mooney-eyed holding hands or sitting just a little closer than would normally be considered permissible. It’s odd. I really don’t have a reason for this, but it would be interesting if it were linked to the idea of the chained demons; that is to say, during Ramadan with all its purity and holiness these young people can be trusted to behave, whereas otherwise it would be forbidden.

Reason number three isn’t even particularly theological: many Muslims will tell you that the reason for the fasting is to experience the suffering of the poor. Then, at the end of the month, there is Zakat al-Iftar (I think- someone check my spelling), which is a charitable contribution to the poor. Similarly other holidays highlight the ideas of generosity and good morals.  For example, when sheep are sacrificed in the streets in November, practice dictates that a third of the meat should go to the family, a third to the neighbors, and a third to the poor. I’m told the whole city turns a particularly vivid shade of red. (Ewww. Or is it ewe?)  But nonetheless, generosity is a central theme in Ramadan, and in Islam in general.

I was sitting on the bus on the way home next to a young woman who was reading the Qur’an (the holy book) as we rode. I asked her, when she set it down, if the reading of the Qur’an was something particularly popular during Ramadan, or if I would see it with the same frequency during the rest of the year. This started up a conversation as to the nature of Ramadan, and I asked her casually if she was excited to be able to eat during the say again.  “No, no!” She said vehemently (although, fortunately for me, without offense- may people seem to be happy to end the fasting), “I am sad to see it go. Ramadan is such a beautiful time.”

And so it is, whether it be for devout theological reasons, or simply the empathy and communion that is formed by going hungry with the poor, or as a time to break fast each day with family and friends, it is an absolutely beautiful occasion. Now if we could just do that and keep the stores open during normal business hours…

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